All The Vibes: SS23 Fashion Month Edition
NYFW, LFW, MFW and PFW SS23
Whether it's runway shows, magazine editorials, social media posts, street style, nostalgic trends, fashion news, brand collaborations, new collection drops or cool ad campaigns; ‘All The Vibes’ will be a place where I let you know all of the fashionable things that should be on your radar.
Welcome to a bonus edition of this series, one that’s specifically focused on the SS23 fashion season that’s just wrapped up. Here are my favourite shows from each calendar week - New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week - along with my takeaways and general thoughts on fashions busiest month of the year!
NYFW SS23
So Vogue World happened. Not that anyone really understood what was going on or why, but here we are celebrating 130 years of Vogue. Lil Nas X performed (I wonder if Anna was secretly bopping along and lip syncing in her head?), Serena Williams opened, Gigi Hadid walked, there were dogs, there were babies, it was too much and not enough at the same time. And what was with the fashion? Better luck next time.
Ooooo Mirror Palais, where have you been hiding? Sultry silhouettes and sheer detailing were showcased at the Church of Ascension in NYC, with old world religious references tapping into modern Christiancore aesthetics and ideals. Designer Marcelo Gaia grew up in church where he had to surpress his homosexuality, so this was a homecoming for him in more ways than one.
Day 2 of NYFW SS23 saw Marni make magic on a cobblestone runway under the Manhattan bridge. As the first show for the brand outside of their typical MFW slot, the industry was bound to be taking note - and Marni didn't disappoint. Colour, print clashes, bold patterns and texture showed what the next stage of luxury streetwear fashion could look like.
LFW SS23
Harris Reed brought the theatrics back to fashion. There was a performance from Adam Lambert, and a ballerina bride graced the runway holding a bouquet of Lily of the Valley in a tribute to the late Queen Elizabeth II.
Simone Rocha brought the frills, the drama, the style and the grace for LFW SS23. This was a show that stole my heart with its ethereal and sensitive designs that balanced masculine and feminine in a clever way, but then again I’d expect nothing less from a designer that received a standing ovation once the show was finished.
We now know that Burberry’s SS23 show was Tisci’s last, which explains the fanfare. Pre-show the likes of Bella Hadid, Erin O’Connor and Irina Shayk cosied up to the rich and famous such as Ye, Erykha Badu and Normani, with Tisci celebrating the spirit of togetherness and joy that comes around a lá British summer time in his last collection. But my favourite moment has to be Ms. Campbell window shopping while in line to walk her walk and work her magic on the runway. Goals.
MFW SS23
Seeing double? Gucci’s MFW SS23 will no doubt go down in history. Alessandro Michele uses his mother being a twin as inspiration for the upcoming season, sending 68 sets of twins down the runway in matching outfits that were timeless, creepy, and pretty cool.
Matthieu Blazy presented his SS23 sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta with fashion heavyweight Kate Moss making a return to the runway. He gave us stylish looks from rich stay-at-home-wife vibes to suited up CEO husband to single young fun aunt decked out to the nines, with South Sudanese model Anok Yai closing the extravaganza in a feather number that would make Sesame Street jealous.
Paris Hilton walked the Versace SS23 runway. I repeat, Paris Hilton walked the Versace SS23 runway and I feel like she had a great time? Her sparkly Barbie pink dress was iconic and took me back to her Simple Life days, her and Elle Woods would definitely be besties. I can see it now.
PFW SS23
Acne is beautiful, Acne is cool, and Acne is one brand I could probably live out the rest of my days in. Their PFW SS23 show was romantic and undone, with tougher fabrics given a fresh spin for warmer seasons.Â
The big boys of the fashion world, Saint Laurent and Dior, went all out grandeur for their respective larger than life shows. Featuring fountains at the former, that took place in the basin of the Trocadéro across from the Eiffel Tower, and a baroque grotto by artist Eva Jospin at the latter, the clothes played second fiddle to their immense surroundings.
I'm all for an out of the box fashion show invitation, and Balenciaga came through with a beaten up wallet full of receipts, ID cards and a credit card bearing a random woman's name - bonus points as you keep the wallet afterwards. Circular economy fashion invite, anyone? Also the street style outside Rick Owens, aka the prince of darkness, was wild. Fecal Matter’s skin shoes were epic. And Cher closed Balmain, no biggie.
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