Anti-Patriotism Is Fashion's New Wave
We're living in a state of patriotic fashion paradox
Fashion is on an anti-patriotic kick. Through a mix of nostalgia, irony, a twisted take on cringe and a new set of identity codes, patriotic fashion of old is being reimagined and reinvented in line with contemporary society.
Hot Takes is my bullet point thoughts on fashion's hottest issues. These posts get to the heart of why people are talking about what they’re talking about, what this means, and where this could go next.
Think: what direction is fashion heading in? What’s new, innovative, and exciting? What's going on in fashion that's pissing people off?
Hot Takes ties fashion topics to a wider cultural and social context, digging into the often more significant meaning behind things.
So sit back, relax, and let's get into it. Here’s Hot Takes #23.
Let’s set the scene.
Times are changing and patriotic fashion is making a comeback in a big way – though not as we once knew it.
Whether that's Doja Cat dressing up as Ginger Spice at Wireless festival in a Union Jack couture piece by Dilara Findikoglu, the 2021 Met Gala theme being "In America", or a nostalgia-induced revival back to classic Americana brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, fashion is being plated up and reinterpreted in a state of patriotic paradox.
For my London homies and American friends overseas, and particularly for the generations who came before us, patriotism was once something to be proud of, because who wouldn't want to show up and show out in red, white and blue? (Though I can't relate because... well, this is not the time and place for that)
But for young independent designers and a wave of people who are reclaiming, reinterpreting, reappropriating and recontextualising patriotic symbolism in line with contemporary identities, flag motifs and irony-imbued aesthetics have taken on new meaning.
This is political satire in anti-fashion form.
It's poking fun at itself while coming to terms with an identity re-reckoning, and what patriotic fashion codes mean in today's constant state of societal chaos and crisis.
Union Jack’s welcome, or unwelcome, fashion revival
When I think of England I think of pigeons, a constant onslaught of rain and grey weather, battered fish and chunky chips, and people sitting at the bus stop smoking a fag. Many may disagree about what the UK is known for, but we can all agree that the Union Jack flag screams and shouts the British Empire.
But the Union Jack has never quite reached the cult of cool heights it wants to be known for, instead, its need to embed itself into the cultural zeitgeist has reeked of desperation, as told by Dazed.
It's this air of uncool and cringeness that's giving Union Jack fashion a new lease of life, particularly among young people in the UK – this is all happening at a time when nearly 40% of 18 to 24-year-olds would prefer an elected head of state over keeping the monarchy compared to the 78% of over 65s who support the reign of the royals.
From wool beanies that could be found in a souvenir shop in Westminster to tighter-than-tight vest tops sold at the likes of Urban Outfitters to gothic-y corsets hanging on the racks at vintage shops, young people are re-adopting the flag and giving its very essence a new lease of life.
This shift is less about being patriotic and showing your undying love to the empire and is more about how nostalgic codes of the past are reentering the fashion lexicon through a new-age cultural reinterpretation.
Fashion always looks to the past to look to the future, but this irony-laden nostalgic British aesthetic is thought-provoking while questioning what it even means to exist in the UK today.
The new American dream
If ever you wanted a glimpse at a brand that is actively critiquing the political and economic structure of the United States through the lens of fashion, look no further than A$AP Rocky's debut for AWGE and the SS25 American Sabotage collection shown at Paris Fashion Week.
According to A$AP, this was “ghetto expressionism” at its finest and the heavy juxtaposition of American uniforms and flags highlights the volatility experienced in America. “We’ve got different political satire, and it’s just about telling my story through that,” the rapper said of the show. “Hopefully I didn’t commit treason.”
Treason or not, a slew of other brands and designers are taking the notion of what it means to be a Yankee and flipping it on its head.
Denim Tears consistently interrogates the Black American experience as seen in a collaboration with Levi's that uses a motif of cotton wreaths, showcasing the complex, harrowing and deep history of African Americans while giving credit to the creativity born out of racial discrimination and hardship.
And once upon a time, VAQUERA sent an American flag dress with a mile-long train down the runway, and the brand has since metamorphosed into an anti-establishment fashion force that sells subversion.
While Victor Barragán of BARRAGÁN has become an influential voice in the Mexican creative industry, using his platform to showcase new ideas of hyper-Americanism and his version of the American dream.
My two cents.
Ain't no doubt about it, anti-patriotism and ironic symbolism are fashion's new wave.
These identity-led fashion codes beg the question: who am I? Who are you? Who are we? What does this shit all mean? And wtf has that got to do with what we wear?
In a world where irony reigns supreme, younger generations are embracing once-cringeworthy patriotic symbols, reimagining them with a twist of defiance and wit.
Independent designers are challenging traditional fashion codes, reshaping the landscape in alignment with contemporary identities, turning outdated emblems into fresh statements that question what it means to belong in an increasingly globalised world.
The result of these shifts is a modern mash-up of subversion and style, where the old guard of patriotism is being reworked into something fresh and relevant – even if it is a little chaotic at times.
This is a reflection of our current state of patriotic paradox, and with the current division and polarisation running rife across societies of all shapes and sizes, it is the dawn of a new anti-fashion beginning.
If you're vibing with this newsletter, subscribe to get weekly doses of fashion goodness straight in your inbox. It’s worth it, I promise.
Want to get in touch?
Follow me on Instagram
Follow me on Twitter
Follow me on LinkedIn
What do you think of the Fashion Tingz glow-up? Are you into the new logo, branding, and visuals? Is it a vibe? I’ve worked hard aligning the look and feel of this lil ol’ newsletter with the content, and I hope it comes across.
Let me know your thoughts in the comments!
Your fashion bestie,
J’Nae xoxo