Social Media Runway Shows Are A Fashion Ick
We've all seen it, viral 'ick-worthy' fashion moments now dominate fashion month
Like it or not, social media now plays a big part in how we interpret and consume fashion. In all of their digital glory, platforms like TikTok and Instagram favour viral moments instead of credibility and designer vision.
Social media fashion shows give me the ick, but maybe that's because I’ve only worked behind the scenes at fashion week and have yet to land a spot sitting on a highly coveted FROW. I said what I said. All jokes aside, social media has changed the trajectory of fashion shows as we used to know them and has turned them into a different beast entirely.
Thanks to Instagram, Snapchat, TikTok and more, camera-ready, smartphone-in-hand influencers now dominate fashion month — whether that's outside getting street style papped or inside sprawling across front rows. And there’s a good reason for this as brands can harness the vast reach of influencer audience bases to turn attention back to the brand in question.
However, as the novelty of these spectacles wears thin, a growing backlash against the superficiality of social media-driven fashion consumption has emerged. People are seeking authentic connections and meaningful fashion experiences beyond the digital echo chambers, where reality is often distorted and curated.Â
Needless to say, the contemporary fashion show now assumes multifaceted roles to cater to a diverse range of needs and perspectives, from those inside and outside of its walls. On top of this, the growing appetite of consumers wanting to see what's strutting down the runway as and when it debuts is shaking things up.Â
As we, the general public, are given virtual front row seats to the hottest shows from big industry players and brands of the moment to relative newcomers, the catwalk and its cultural significance have undergone a seismic shift.
Fashion is now a spectator sport, with global viewers tuning into runway shows from their sofas, smartphones in hand — for this, I am guilty as charged.
Au revoir, fashion gatekeepersÂ
The traditional fashion calendar is crumbling as conventional runway seasons of old are being rejected in favour of alternative show formats. The once steadfast schedules of New York, London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks in March and September of each year have disintegrated, with shows, presentations and brand experiences now scattered across the calendar year.Â
Amid the upheaval and chaos in the upper echelons of fashion chambers, what often goes unacknowledged is how social media is challenging traditional gatekeepers of taste and information.
The influx of digital platforms is only going to proliferate, and to stay relevant, and, you know, ‘trending’, runway show content needs to fit within the confines of a square frame or a less than a minute video snippet.
Social media x catwalk cultureÂ
On TikTok, the #runwayshow hashtag has 144.4 million views and counting, videos relating to Catwalkshows have over 278.9 million views, and in 2022 TikTok even launched a #FashionForYou initiative bringing audiences a month full of dedicated fashion programming content to align with the runway show calendar.
Ain't no doubt about it, modern fashion shows are being shaped by the discourse taking place on big socials.Â
The perception of fashion has evolved into a 1080px by 1080px at a 1:1 aspect ratio perspective — aka, Instagram's square post size format. Depending on how and where you like to spend your time scrolling, any and all social media platforms influence catwalk culture by serving as spaces to fuel the modern fashion content machine, prompting shifts in the very essence of how runway shows exist in the first place.Â
No-phone fashion shows, for real?
In the year 2024 when we’re never more than a few inches from a digital device of some sort, would you believe ‘no-phone fashion shows’ are becoming a thing? Well, we have The Row’s AW24 presentation to thank for this. Guests received an email requesting them to refrain from capturing or sharing content during the runway event, and instead of phones, attendees were provided with Japanese notepads and pens for handwritten notes. It was a major main character energy meets BDE kinda move.
I get why The Olsen Twins did this. At a time when digital discourse can make or break a brand, restricting access puts the power back in the hands of brands themselves as they seek to control the narrative surrounding their shows and collections.
But it also sparks discussions about the implications of restricting such access as The New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman said: "I don’t feel that taking some pictures interferes with my ability to fully consider what I am seeing. And I think I am grown up enough to decide that for myself." For some, no-phone fashion shows are the ultimate digital exclusion.Â
So, is social media a fashion week friend or foe?
Runway shows have always transcended mere clothing displays; they serve as powerful vehicles for communicating a brand's identity and inviting consumers into its world. Social media platforms have played a pivotal role in this shift, facilitating diverse and real-time feedback.
And given the substantial costs involved in staging shows, which can rack up to hundreds of thousands of pounds, most brands prioritise making an impact on socials as it can directly correlate with sales. Fashion is and has always been a pay-to-play game.
Consequently, designers, brands and PR agencies strategically allocate seating to people with significant followings, exemplified by Gucci's influencer pit. Certain runway concepts appear crafted solely to resonate on social media, with episodes of virality capable of catapulting emerging brands into the spotlight. While a viral moment may momentarily divert attention from the clothing, it amplifies brand visibility which translates into purchases which is the ultimate end goal.
Viral runway moments, for better or worse
Fashion has always thrived on extravagant runway performances and presentations as a form of pageantry, with the likes of Thierry Mugler pioneering this approach in his iconic 1984 show featuring a pregnant Pat Cleveland descending as Madonna from the skies. And Alexander McQueen's spring 1999 show was also legendary in its own right as it featured paint-spraying robots colouring a dress worn by supermodel Shalom Harlow. Â
In more recent times, AVAVAV's FW23 show offered a clever commentary on contemporary perceptions of luxury in fashion amid a sea of broken heels and ripped clothing, challenging fashion's notions of extreme superficiality. We can’t forget about Schiaparelli's faux-taxidermy couture which riled up PETA and was worn by Kylie Jenner.
And Coperni has to be the it-brand to debut viral runway social media moments, seen on their FW23 runway featuring AI-powered robot dogs interacting with models to their dress spray painted onto Bella Hadid. The trend of performance-driven shows tailored for social media raises the question: was it worth it if it wasn't shareable online?
Social media fashion is kind of ick-worthy, ha
The traditional runway show has turned into a fleeting spectacle with a lifespan of mere hours. In this hyperconnected digital age, where trends spread like wildfire and attention spans are shortening, fashion shows have become more about creating buzz than showcasing craftsmanship or artistic vision. Gimmicky stunts and extravagant productions vie for fleeting moments of online attention, as designers strive to capture the elusive 'viral moment.'Â
But viral fashion shows aren't a new phenomenon. They have been around for decades, and they do their part in entertaining while connecting people to a brand’s fantasy world that exists in a borderless imagination. The real-time documentation of shows via social media drives excitement and hype, and it doesn't hurt that likes and views rack up in the process.
Despite not physically attending a runway show, we now get to experience the moment, absorbing the visuals, soundtrack, and vibes through screens. This evolution has birthed a new breed of theatrical runway presentations, which can at times prioritise social media virality above all else. In this landscape, the quest for the perfect viral moment takes precedence, however much it may give people the fashion ick.
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