The Fashion Industry and the Black Experience
Can an industry that thrives off of exclusivity really change?
J’Nae Writes is a newsletter exploring fashion, design, and style.
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Growing up, I used to drool over the glossy pages of British Vogue, Elle, GQ and Harpers Bazaar. These magazines were an escape route for me, a window into other worlds I could only dream about. There was a major problem though, something my younger self couldn't quite comprehend. Why was it that whenever I turned the page, I was never able to see someone who looked like me, looking back? It didn't stop me buying the magazines back then, and it didn't dampen my love for fashion. It did however make me feel different, it made me feel ‘other’. I didn't fit in and I didn't belong - fashion wasn't made for people who look like me.Â
It often feels like in the world of fashion, and the media in general, crucial conversations about race and diversity that take place are done so with a fair amount of lip service. We have the talks, the town halls, the social media shout-outs, people say all the right things and make the right suggestions, they tick all the right boxes, then they chew and spit out these crucial conversations, instead of digesting them and letting them sink in long enough to see actual change. It's uncomfortable to unpack, complicated to dissect - but I couldn't let Black History Month pass in the UK without giving it a try.
Industry tension and exclusivity
An elitist industry that thrives off of exclusivity wont change overnight. I know that, you know that, the entire world knows that. Walls have been built over the years to shut out those who don't fit into a particular mould, those who don't adhere to archaic ideals of what's beautiful and what's worthy. I don't fit into these stereotypical ideals, nor do millions of others across the globe, people who look like me and people who don't. And that's what's beautiful about the crazy world we live in, all of our differences and complexities are a wonder to behold, it's quite something. But people don't like what they don't understand, what they can't appreciate.Â
There's a huge disconnect with the fashion industry accurately reflecting the world we inhabit. Yes there have been more diverse campaigns recently, more inclusive runways, more attention given to Black and brown designers, but all of that feels performative. Attention for attention's sake isn't going to get us anywhere, it's not going to bring about the change that desperately needs to happen. Fashion is one of the few visible industries where it's glaringly obvious who's being ignored and excluded. It's quite literally thrown in our faces; from billboards, to magazines and newspapers, to social media and TV advertisements, we see the exclusive ideals fashion perpetuates. And as someone who's worked in fashion for over a decade, I'm acutely aware of the tensions between my work and my race and the limitations in the industry. Will it improve? That remains to be seen.
Supporting harmful brands
Fashion hasn't yet grappled with its racist past, or its present for that matter. We've just spent the last year fighting racism, campaigning to get our voices heard, coming up with initiatives and ideas to pave the way for future generations and to set a precedent, yet the amount of celebrities and journalists who flocked to attend a particular runway show in Venice this year was embarrassing. What was all of the effort for? Was it worth it if we’re just going to publicly support harmful brands? Has everyone in the industry caught a sudden case of amnesia? That's just one of a number of occasions where something like this has happened, but it's concerning to say the least. I think that the ensuing freak hailstorm that followed that runway show was no coincidence.
As the fashion industry fails to hold brands who have a history of racism, misogyny, openly homophobic views and sentiments accountable, they fail not only the communities and their consumers, but they fail themselves aswell. It seems as if these days people are less willing to take a stand against issues like racism for fear of being cancelled, but does that mean we no longer get to hold harmful brands accountable? Are they an exception to the rule, a pardonable casualty of cancel culture? Do we no longer care about the experiences of marginalised individuals, instead putting our faith in a fashion conglomerate who'd survive with or without our support?
The dollar or the dream
Some may argue business is business, and as a professional you should be able to divorce yourself from your values and morals in instances where enforcing those values would be detrimental to your place of work, your brand or your business. But should it be business as usual if this goes against what you believe in? Should you as a human being, a Black or brown person, a marginalised individual, come secondary to the money? Caught between a rock and a hard place, those who work in fashion and come from one of these backgrounds often have little or no choice. They graft to survive. To make it in an industry that's made it very clear how they feel about them.
That's not to say there isn't hope, and that we should be willing to give up and give in. A lot of people entering the fashion industry may feel as if it's easier now than ever before, and I hate to break it to you, but it's quite the opposite. Breaking down glass ceilings, shattering the grandiose notions of those that came before isn’t going to be easy. Being blacklisted or having your career negatively impacted because of your race shouldn’t be a concern of anyone, let alone someone who works in an industry that claims to be all-embracing. The rule book doesn't need to just be changed - it needs to be completely rewritten.
Fashion is entering a new era. An era where the rules can be rewritten, where space can be made for ‘outsiders’, those who've never fit in or belonged. We can challenge beliefs about who's worthy and break down some of the industry's tension. With a foundation of equal opportunity and respect, and a level playing field with no racial disadvantages, space can be made for everyone.
Truth be told, you're either here for this revolutionary moment in time where we attempt to eradicate racist ways and notions, or you’re not. Either we believe in changing the industry, which means we have to make sacrifices and have tough conversations, or we don’t and nothing changes, no progress is made. You're never going to be able to control anyone else's actions but you can for sure control your own. So, what will you do?
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Catch you next time,
J’Nae
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