What Makes A Cult Sneaker?
The subcultures and communities behind popular sneakers
It may come as a surprise to fashion enthusiasts and trendsetters, but the world doesn't revolve around the micro-fashion bubbles in cities such as New York, London, Milan and Paris. Often, fashion is portrayed as an elitist realm inhabited by influencers and celebrities and it's easy to get caught up in this glitzy portrayal. But what goes down in these places has no relevance to most people's lives. It trends at best, and fades into irrelevance and insignificance at worst.
Instead of fixating solely on the opinions and changing positions of the fashion elite and people that work in the industry, it's time to shine a light on the social movements that give fashion its lasting meaning. And one area where fashion has a lot of meaning is sneakers. Yup, sneakers. You know that thing most people have a pair of in their closet? Well, those.
A timeless sneaker transcends fleeting trends. They're universally liked, culturally accepted across varying socioeconomic status levels, and resonate in different pockets and corners of the globe. Anyone can be part of sneaker conversations. It's not about being ahead of the curve and on-trend with sneakers; it's about fashion formulas that resonate with everyday people and stand the test of time.
I’m a bit of a self-confessed sneakerhead so I may give this topic more thought than most. But I want to bring you along for the ride, so, brace yourselves. We're about to dive into and tackle some common misconceptions about the true relevance and meaning behind some of fashion's most popular sneakers.
Adidas Samba
If you're even remotely connected to football culture, or soccer depending on what side of the pond you're from, you've probably noticed the enduring popularity of Sambas. These iconic shoes are both functional and cool and have been worn for decades, and more recent collaborations with the likes of British designer Grace Wales Bonner and Palace saw these cult kicks top Lyst’s hottest products list in Q3 2022.
Sambas have longevity and a broad appeal, which has been embraced by football fans for about three decades, but the shoe originally came to be in 1949 to enable football players to train on icy, hard ground — hence why the shoe is so deeply embedded in football culture. It may have started as a grassroots thing, but it has since spawned into one of the most popular sneakers money can buy.
2022 may have been labelled as the "summer of Sambas" and the sneaker is consistently one of Adidas’s best-selling models, but it's just as likely to be worn by Brits going for a beer run pre-footie match as it is by fashion insiders. It stays true to its roots to appeal to consumers of old, while being released in new colour ways to appeal to new consumers, and that's what makes this such a multifaceted sneaker.
Nike Air Force 1
If ever there was such a thing as a perfect white sneaker, then the Nike Air Force 1 is it. Did you know that the name of this shoe refers to the aeroplane on which the President of the United States travels? There's a little sneaker fact I bet you didn't know you needed to know. I learnt that at the Design Museums 'Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street' exhibition (now closed), and I'm imparting that wisdom to you all.
Anyway, I digress. Since its inception in 1982, the Air Force 1 has transcended the boundaries of culture. Designed by Bruce Kilgore — the OG Nike product designer responsible for the Sock Racer, Air Jordan 2 and Shox — and initially only available as a high top, it was the first Nike Air cushioning on a hoops shoe and few variations have been made to its original design since.
Shortly after launch six of Nike's most popular NBA players participated in a shoot for the sneaker (pictured above), and for its 25th anniversary another six players recreated the shoot. But outside of celeb clout, credit has to go to the American Black community for popularising this sneaker, particularly inner-city fans that donned the sneaker despite its gentrified standing. And overseas in London, grime has helped to cement Air Force 1’s cult sneaker status.
Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars
Picture this: it's 1917, and the world is buzzing with anticipation. Converse is about to embark into the realm of basketball. Fast forward to 1922 and Chuck Taylor puts his John Hancock on the ankle patch, and voila, the "Chuck Taylor All Stars" are born. But here's the twist: back in the 20s and 30s, basketball wasn't the global phenomenon it is today. It was the hidden gem of sports with little cultural clout.
But not to fret, Taylor took matters into his own hands and hopped on a nationwide tour popping up at YMCA gyms and high schools across the USA to endorse the sneaker as basketball was skyrocketing in popularity. The market was thirsty for sneakers that could keep up with the on-court action, and Converse was there to quench that thirst. It's since become an iconic symbol of sport and style embedded into the sneaker landscape for generations to come.
However, the sneaker's popularity wasn't strictly limited to the courts. Varying music sub-genres from indie to rock, punk and grunge embraced the All Star, with bands like Pink Floyd, Iron Maiden, The Ramones, Nirvana and The Strokes regularly wearing the sneakers as they became an anti-establishment symbol. In fact, the sneakers' newfound cultural standing was so prevalent in music some bands even had Chuck Taylors made in their honour. How dope is that?
Vans Authentic
This is the sneaker for skateboarding enthusiasts. Let's take a trip down memory lane back to 1974 when skateboarding exploded onto the scene, and SoCal cool kids were rocking the rugged Vans Style #44 — the sneaker we now know as the Authentic. This sneaker didn't just become popular; it developed a cult-like following among skateboarders as it was a go-to shoe for those who wanted to shred in style.
And from there its dominance in the skating space continued to rise. In 1975, skaters Tony Alva and Stacey Peralta approached the folks at Vans with an idea. They wanted to create a custom sneaker specifically designed for skateboarding and Vans was on board with this strategic partnership, with the sneaker quickly becoming a symbol of an entire generation of skateboarders worldwide.
But Vans didn't stop there. In the late '80s, they kicked things up a notch by introducing their signature shoe program, allowing skateboarders to design their very own sneakers. The Authentic has since become a symbol of surfing, skating, and counterculture, rooted in a rebellious creative spirit. Over the years, it’s evolved from a casual sneaker into an emblem of American counterculture and independence.
New Balance 574
The New Balance 574 is where comfort meets style. Initially created as a high-performance running shoe in 1988, the 574 was designed to provide stability on the track. Little did New Balance know that this shoe would soon break free from the confines of the running world and become a superstar in its own right. This sneaker has conquered not just the tracks, but the streets too.
574's can hold their ground. This sneaker is like that reliable friend who's always there for you, no matter the occasion. What makes the 574 a cult sneaker is its ability to seamlessly blend functionality with style. It's a lifestyle sneaker, hun. New Balance realized this early on and made sure that the 574 was accessible to everyone by offering it at an affordable price.
Throughout the 90s and into the 2000s, New Balance continued to make waves and innovate. From America to Japan and every corner in between, this 574 became an essential part of sneaker culture. It became a staple in hip-hop, with rappers proudly rocking their 574s. Fashionistas in Harajuku recognized the undeniable influence of the 574s. And pop stars, punk rockers, and grunge enthusiasts have since fallen head over heels for its timeless appeal.
Superga 2750
The world of Superga and its beloved 2750 model, aka "The People's Shoe of Italy" is fascinating. It began in 1911 when local shoemaker Walter Martiny set out to create something extraordinary for the hardworking farmers in his community. He crafted rubber-soled footwear that provided comfort and durability, revolutionizing the way people walked and worked.
Fast forward to 1925, and Superga introduced its 2750 model to the world. With its sleek and sporty appearance, it quickly became a cult sneaker loved by shoe aficionados everywhere. But Superga didn't stop there. They embraced their role as the sneaker champions of affordability, creating kicks that spoke to people from all walks of life. Trendsetters, comfort-seekers, and everyone in between.
The 2750 model sets itself apart from the pack by keeping people steady on their feet. And this sneaker model remains at the core of the Superga brand, captivating audiences' attention in the 70s and 80s due to its quality and Italian charm, which has remained to this day. Will you join the legions of fashion enthusiasts who have made these sneakers an icon?
In the sneaker world few styles remain popular and stand the test of time. What's the flavour of the moment right now will be out of style by next year, and the ruthless and demanding appetite of the sneaker market and its ability to drive hype and demand is what makes new sneaker releases covet-worthy.
But there's more to it than that. The true sneaker classics, the ones people from all over the world know and recognise, the sneakers that are worn by people that care about keeping up with trends as well as the people that couldn't care less, are part of a bigger story.
Fashion doesn't solely sit in the domain of the rich and famous, the fashion elite, the influencers, editors and stylists who track trends and *cough cough* shape the fashion landscape. Fashion is about people creating their own narratives, finding connections that span generations and cultures, and embracing the global love for items like sneakers.
The next time you're lacing up your Sambas, cleaning your Air Force 1s or rocking your Chuck Taylors, remember that you're part of a bigger story. Cult sneakers reach cult status because they connect people from all walks of life while having a deep and rich history. The subcultures and communities behind popular sneakers are as important as the sneakers themselves.
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