Why We’re All Wearing A Uniform
Fashion may be fickle, but a uniform can last forever
Whatever end of the fashion spectrum you reside at, chances are there are some style choices you stick to like glue. These choices, whether conscious or unconscious, can go a long way in creating the modern uniform.
When was the last time you remember wearing a uniform? Was it at kindergarten, middle school or high school? Or maybe it was playing for a college sports team or at your first job after graduating?
Chances are at some point in recent history you can remember donning a uniform of some kind — whether through choice or force.
Uniform culture isn’t what it used to be. It's stepping up its game as we forgo individuality in favour of collective, uniform modes of self-expression.
Fashion designers know the true value of this secret. It’s why they stick to creating uniforms as faithfully as a chicken lays an egg.
Before the capsule wardrobe became the fashion darling, designers were perfecting the art of the uniform. The mantra here is simple: the more straightforward, the better.
It might seem counterintuitive that the minds behind high fashion would embrace a no-frills approach to getting dressed, but when you think about it, it makes a lot of sense.
Uniforms are the basis of many collections, and they go a long way in building a concrete brand identity and a sustainable fashion future.
The rise of uniform culture
Uniforms are everywhere: on soldiers, school children, doormen, and flight attendants. Throughout history, they've played a significant role in society.
Take military uniforms, for example. They convey a strong sense of national pride and rank, and they've even marched their way into high fashion, seen at Yves Saint Laurent’s 1968 updated take on jackets worn by British officers in the 19th century or in more recent times at The Attico’s SS24 show.
Or consider the Breton striped shirt, which boasts a history spanning 160 years and is now a firm favourite among the yummy mummy elite. Initially designed for French sailors, the navy and white stripes served a practical purpose — helping to rescue sailors who fell overboard.
But in 1917, thanks to our girl Coco Chanel who spotted the iconic "la marinière" during her trips to the French coast, a naval necessity was transformed into a luxury uniformed ideal.
School uniforms also hold a special place in shaping attitudes toward dress and identity — maybe that's why Riri opted for a back-to-school theme in her latest #FENTYxPUMA campaign.
I bet you can remember going shopping for your school uniform with your mum in the run-up to a new term, laden with overloaded bags but excited to put on your crisp white polo shirt and itchy wool jumper.
Designers frequently play with the classic elements of school uniforms — think blazers, pleated skirts, and ties — often adding a twist inspired by the latest trends and culture shifts, including K-pop and K-dramas.
In South Korea, where school uniforms are strictly enforced, school fashion often appears in TV dramas such as True Beauty (I’d recommend watching if you’re into a coming-of-age drama) and music videos like IVE’s Love Dive.
This pop cultural take on school uniforms adds a fantasy element to the whole thing, and continues to influence how we perceive and express ourselves through coded clothing choices.
Branding takes a uniform approach
Designers are doing their darndest to weave uniform fashion into the very fabric of their brand DNA, crafting cohesive, cult-like looks that when seen out on the streets, it's an IYKYK kind of vibe.
They adopt this approach for good reason.
The importance of a polished, uniform aesthetic, can help make clothing memorable in the eyes of the consumer. And the appeal of formulaic outfits cannot be overstated.
Leading the charge are brands like Miu Miu and Prada, basking in their golden uniform eras with collections that blend the timeless with the contemporary.
Miu Miu leaned into minimal uniform dressing in their utilitarian SS23 show, and Prada elevated the everyday uniform and upped the ante for AW23 — A$AP Rocky was even crowned Head Boy for the brand's SS20 womenswear show in Milan.
Tommy Hilfiger has long perfected the art of the prep uniform, and is injecting this same vibe into denim with the launch of TOMMY JEANS in a bid to adapt to the dress codes of a new generation.
And we all know that J. Crew is one American heavyweight known for creating self-identifying, uniform-esque prep clothing favoured among the middle class.
At the other end of the spectrum, Aimé Leon Dore is redefining streetwear’s uniform with their signature New York inspired coding.
For SS17, Teddy Santis brought back the brand’s “Uniform Program” in the form of pullovers and baseball shirts in seasonal colours, while SS20 saw this continue — there's even a ‘core uniform’ section on its website.
These brands excel in creating ensembles that make dressing a breeze for brand fans and newcomers alike, communicating their aesthetics in a way that is true to their vision.
This all goes to prove that uniformity in fashion doesn't necessarily have to mean blending in. In fact, it can mean the exact opposite.
Swag x uniform, uniform x swag
Swag culture, with its roots in hip-hop and streetwear, has made its way back into the fashion spotlight.
At its core, swag is all about flaunting personal style and status with confidence. Or as Urban Dictionary would define it, it's about being “very cool, drippy, or badass”. Amen to that.
With that being said, swag has become a uniform of sorts. Swaggalicious. Swaggadocious. It’s all about having swagger.
But here's where it gets interesting: the rise of uniform culture — marked by its simplicity and consistency — does in fact complement swag culture’s flair for individual expression.
On platforms like TikTok, we're seeing a fusion of these two trends, where creators showcase their unique swag within the framework of a cohesive, signature look.
Videos relating to ‘Fashion Swagger’ have over 1.5 million views, and TikToks tagged with ‘Swagger Outfit’ currently have 62.5 million posts and counting.
Then you’ve got accounts like Uniform Display which showcase the select style of a particular group of Londoners who mirror each other's swag, creating an identifiable uniformity in the process.
And with over 140,000 followers, they've got to be doing something right.
It’s a fashion paradox: the old-school essence of a uniform’s origin is magnified by the boldness of swag, showing that opposites not only attract but can work to elevate each other.
A ‘you-niform’ for the times
Pop culture has had a long-standing romance with the schoolgirl archetype, often favouring — if not fetishizing — its depiction. This has propelled pleated skirts, cropped sweater vests and knee-high socks into the fashion limelight.
Beyond Miu Miu’s viral skirt, Gossip Girl's Blair Waldorf and Britney Spears in Baby One More Time exemplify the school uniform's grip on mainstream fashion. Nostalgic school attire is being reimagined for new audiences.
As a result, uniforms are entering their next phase — ‘you-niform’.
Spencer Badu's SS24 collection is a masterclass in this very thing, merging the practicality of uniforms with a dash of usefulness, durability and practicality. This collection strips away the mundane connotations of uniforms, replacing them with sleek designs for the modern wearer.
Badu's genius lies in his ability to create pieces that are versatile and distinctive, offering a canvas for personal expression while maintaining a cohesive aesthetic.
It’s a uniform for the times we’re currently living in.
The SS24 collection is not just clothing; it's a sartorial call to arms, demonstrating that uniforms can be a powerful vehicle for updating traditional dress codes in a world that craves order and originality.
So, what’s next for the good ol’ uniform?
Uniform culture in fashion embodies a streamlined, consistent look.
It doesn't always mean what you wear when going to school, nor does it mean what you choose to put on when working in certain corporate environments or establishments where you're expected to stick to a strict dress code.
Wearing a uniform can mean many different things to many different people.
Think of Steve Jobs' black turtleneck or Anna Wintour's sunglasses and bob; both work to simplify daily fashion choices while exuding a certain style and a memorable identity.
The future of uniform fashion lies in this blend of cultural fashion cues and nuance, promising a stylistic advantage amid a sea of ever-evolving trends.
In today's fashion landscape, the significance of uniform culture is poised for evolution and an upgrade.
And brands, designers, stylist, PR’s, editors and everyone in between are dedicating immense effort to crafting cohesive looks that go big on uniformity.
With picky shoppers increasingly prioritising quality, consistency and thoughtful curation when it comes to getting dresses, the appeal of discovering uniform styles has never been stronger.
Fashion may be fickle, but a uniform is forever.
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just saw someone talk about how “consistency” in someone’s way of dressing is what makes an icon. aligns with uniform dressing ethos ur presenting here imo!
I like your take on the merge of swag and uniform, I think this kind of thing is really present in brands like NOCTA and Corteiz that merge individualism and collectivism in clever ways.